Joost27 aka Iukekini Protege posted this info on Mazda247.com
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123814293
Credit to him!!!
I used to get excited reading his info, then the original build thread disappeared.
------------------------------------------------------------
Since the old thread got deleted,
Over the next couple weeks I will be trying to re-create the swap thread I had before. It's going to be a lot of work since the last one was made over 10months of research and buying parts. I think for reference purposes having this thread will help future swappers or for reference for those already swapped or interested in what a protege can become.
Stay Tuned.......
Parts List:
Engine - KLZE Straight Neck - $880
Transmission - Mazda 626/MX6 5-spd - $300
Differential - Team MFactory Helical LSD - $670
Clutch - Southbend DXD Rally Series Stage 1 - $180
Flywheel - Shaved MX6 Flywheel ~12lbs - $120
Harness - 1994 MX6 Engine Harness - $100
ECU - KL36 - $120
Distributor - 1994 MX6/626 Distributor - $65
VAF - JE50 from a 1992-94 MX3 - $25
Headers - MX6/626/Probe GT Pacesetter Headers - $220
Intake - MX6/626 SRI w/ Protege 1.8/2.0lCAI extension - $45
Radiator - MX6/626 Radiator - $40
Intermediate shaft - 1994 MX6 Shaft with modified mount bracket - $30
Axles - 2003-03.5 MSP Axles - $275
Starter - MX6/626/Probe GT Starter - $20
O2 Sensors - 1994 MX6 O2 Sensors - $140
Transmission Bracket - 01-03 Protege/P5/MSP Mount Bracket - $40
Rear Mount - Modified 1.8l Bracket and using Protege AWR rear mount - $0
Front Mount - MX6 AWR Front Mount - $60
Battery - Braille B2015 - $165
Tach Adapter - Dakota Digital Tach Adapter - $70
Clutch Slave - $30
Prosport Oil Pressure Gauge - $40
Prosport Oil Sandwich Plate - $30
Transmission Saver Bracket - $35
Basic Maintenance - Timing Belt Kit w/ Tensioner, New Gaskets, New Seals, Thermostat, and Hoses.
Fluids - 4.5qts Oil, 3.2qts 75w-90 Gear Oil, 2 Gallons Coolant, 2qts of PS Fluid, Some DOT 3/4 Brake Fluid.
Misc - Hose for PS suction hose, hoses for heater core, vacuum, and fuel, Assorted bolts and clamps
Mechanical Information:
Motor: JDM KLZE Straight Neck
Transmission: 1998 626 V6 Transmission
Mounts: Driver Side; Protege, Rear; Protege w/ modified bracket, Front; MX6, Passenger Side; 1.8 Protege
Exhaust: MX6/626/PGT Pacesetter Headers, Shortened Protege Mid-Pipe, MSP Axle Back
Radiator: MX6 w/ modified lower mounts to sit in the protege radiator support, MX6 Hoses
Axles: 03 MSP Axles, 1994 MX6 intermediate shaft w/ modified bracket to bolt to the KLZE
Power Steering: New Suction hose cut to length, Protege P/S Reservoir, Protege Pressure Line, and Protege cooler lines and cooler.
Intake: Modified KL31 Throttle body w/ Protege throttle cable mount to clear the master cylinder, MX6 ebay short ram, Protege Lower section CAI w/ AEM DryFlo Air Filter
Battery: Modified Protege battery tray, Braille B2015 15lbs Slim Battery, Universal Battery Tie down rods and 2nd Gen Protege Tie down cut to length
Heater Hoses: Cut to length coolant hose of the correct size
Fuel Lines: 3/8 Fuel lines cut to length
Brake Booster Hose: 3/8 Hose cut to length and a check valve inserted to allow vacuum only
Shift Linkage: Protege Shift Linkage, however, this changes the angle of the shifter int he car slightly. Others have used PGT linkage to get the correct angle back.
Electrical Information:
1994 MX6/626 ECU Pin Locations / Wire Colors Used
22-Pin Connector
Pin 1: Constant 12v Power - BL/R
Pin 2: Start Signal Input from Ignition Switch - BK/R
Pin 11: Ground - BK
Pin 12: PCM Power - R/BK
Pin 20: Neutral Safety Input - LG/BK
26-Pin Connector
Pin 1: Ground - BK
Pin 2: Ground - BK/R
Pin 14: Ground - BK
Pin 15: Ground - BK/BL
Protege Wiring - To get the cluster in fully functional condition, aside from the fan relay, and fuel pump relay the motor should be safe to run without this.
Ground Fuel Pump Relay at ECU
Wire tach adapter to cluster and tach signal wire on distributor
Use Protege Coolant temp sensor in the second coolant temp sensor location (KLZE only), extend Protege coolant temp wires to sensor.
Use protege reverse light switch and wires.
Use a 98+ 626 Speed sensor and Protege harness to run the speedometer on the cluster.
Use an aftermarket thermostatic fan relay
Maintenance Information:
Oil: 5w30
Qty: 4.5qts
Oil Filter: MX6/626 filter
Gear Oil: 75w90
Qty: 2.9qts
Spark Plugs: NGK BKR6E-11
Distributor Cap and Rotor: MX6/626/Probe
Axles: MX6/626/Probe Intermediate Shaft, 01-03 2.0l Protege Axles
-----------------------------------------------------------
Okay, I will try and address some of the questions here.
The pinout list given is to connect the KL harness and ECU to the protege. When the KL harness and ECU are in a 626/MX6/Millenia/PGT/Etc... the harnesses will eventually merger with the body harness and fuse box. However, we are not using the KL body harness or fuse box(or atleast I did not). So, you have to provide the KL ecu with certain things to make it work. You need to give the KL ECU any 12v constants, 12v key-on, and any grounds that it would normally get from the KL body harness. This is to let the ECU have constant power, and to let it know that the key has been turned to the "ON" position. My pinout list are the wires that go to the ECU that need these things as listed, but thats for a 93/94 KL harness and ECU, other years are going to differ.
Along with the ECU, certain sensors and devices on the engine need their own fused 12v power. Examples being the injectors and ignition coil. The type of 12v power (Constant vs Key-On) will vary between different sensors. But, not all sensors need their own 12v, so don't get too scared that yopu will be running power wires everywhere. Quite a few sensors get power from the ECU it self.
Also, you dont have to run the Protege/P5 ecu to get this working. I did it to simplify the work needed. It allowed me to quickly and easily get the car swapped and running with all gauges working. But, you can simply spend more time wiring and eliminate the need for the protege/p5 ecu.
As for the Cooling system, you can do whatever you want for a radiator. Evan, one of the other old swap guys, setup a modified mishimoto protege radiator to work with his KL. I ran a MX6 radiator, because it required less work, making lower mounts for it was easier than extended the inlet and outlets of a different radiator. So, as long as you have a radiator and hoses connecting it to the engine correctly you will be fine.
A/C is a different story. You have two options. Run a complete v6 a/c system which may require some custom tubing and routing. Or, you can use a hybrid setup like I did for some time. You use a KL compressor, modified compressor to condesor line(modified as in the compressor end cut off and KL end welded on), then use the rest of the protege lines and sensors and protege ecu and harness to control it. This worked, but I had one rubber line rub constantly on another hard line and it kept rubbing a hole in it and leaking. I got sick of dealing with it and my protege has now been my winter car for the last two years so, I just finally removed all the A/C stuff. Without writing a novel or being there, this is the best I can really help and describe how to do this.
This swap isnt for someone that is used to doign oil changes and tune-ups. You do have to be quite resourceful and critically think about how each system works together to get a clear understanding of this whole project. However, all the homework is done for you and posted here in my post and the other KL swaps on this forum.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123814293
Credit to him!!!
I used to get excited reading his info, then the original build thread disappeared.
------------------------------------------------------------
Since the old thread got deleted,
Over the next couple weeks I will be trying to re-create the swap thread I had before. It's going to be a lot of work since the last one was made over 10months of research and buying parts. I think for reference purposes having this thread will help future swappers or for reference for those already swapped or interested in what a protege can become.
Stay Tuned.......
Parts List:
Engine - KLZE Straight Neck - $880
Transmission - Mazda 626/MX6 5-spd - $300
Differential - Team MFactory Helical LSD - $670
Clutch - Southbend DXD Rally Series Stage 1 - $180
Flywheel - Shaved MX6 Flywheel ~12lbs - $120
Harness - 1994 MX6 Engine Harness - $100
ECU - KL36 - $120
Distributor - 1994 MX6/626 Distributor - $65
VAF - JE50 from a 1992-94 MX3 - $25
Headers - MX6/626/Probe GT Pacesetter Headers - $220
Intake - MX6/626 SRI w/ Protege 1.8/2.0lCAI extension - $45
Radiator - MX6/626 Radiator - $40
Intermediate shaft - 1994 MX6 Shaft with modified mount bracket - $30
Axles - 2003-03.5 MSP Axles - $275
Starter - MX6/626/Probe GT Starter - $20
O2 Sensors - 1994 MX6 O2 Sensors - $140
Transmission Bracket - 01-03 Protege/P5/MSP Mount Bracket - $40
Rear Mount - Modified 1.8l Bracket and using Protege AWR rear mount - $0
Front Mount - MX6 AWR Front Mount - $60
Battery - Braille B2015 - $165
Tach Adapter - Dakota Digital Tach Adapter - $70
Clutch Slave - $30
Prosport Oil Pressure Gauge - $40
Prosport Oil Sandwich Plate - $30
Transmission Saver Bracket - $35
Basic Maintenance - Timing Belt Kit w/ Tensioner, New Gaskets, New Seals, Thermostat, and Hoses.
Fluids - 4.5qts Oil, 3.2qts 75w-90 Gear Oil, 2 Gallons Coolant, 2qts of PS Fluid, Some DOT 3/4 Brake Fluid.
Misc - Hose for PS suction hose, hoses for heater core, vacuum, and fuel, Assorted bolts and clamps
Mechanical Information:
Motor: JDM KLZE Straight Neck
Transmission: 1998 626 V6 Transmission
Mounts: Driver Side; Protege, Rear; Protege w/ modified bracket, Front; MX6, Passenger Side; 1.8 Protege
Exhaust: MX6/626/PGT Pacesetter Headers, Shortened Protege Mid-Pipe, MSP Axle Back
Radiator: MX6 w/ modified lower mounts to sit in the protege radiator support, MX6 Hoses
Axles: 03 MSP Axles, 1994 MX6 intermediate shaft w/ modified bracket to bolt to the KLZE
Power Steering: New Suction hose cut to length, Protege P/S Reservoir, Protege Pressure Line, and Protege cooler lines and cooler.
Intake: Modified KL31 Throttle body w/ Protege throttle cable mount to clear the master cylinder, MX6 ebay short ram, Protege Lower section CAI w/ AEM DryFlo Air Filter
Battery: Modified Protege battery tray, Braille B2015 15lbs Slim Battery, Universal Battery Tie down rods and 2nd Gen Protege Tie down cut to length
Heater Hoses: Cut to length coolant hose of the correct size
Fuel Lines: 3/8 Fuel lines cut to length
Brake Booster Hose: 3/8 Hose cut to length and a check valve inserted to allow vacuum only
Shift Linkage: Protege Shift Linkage, however, this changes the angle of the shifter int he car slightly. Others have used PGT linkage to get the correct angle back.
Electrical Information:
1994 MX6/626 ECU Pin Locations / Wire Colors Used
22-Pin Connector
Pin 1: Constant 12v Power - BL/R
Pin 2: Start Signal Input from Ignition Switch - BK/R
Pin 11: Ground - BK
Pin 12: PCM Power - R/BK
Pin 20: Neutral Safety Input - LG/BK
26-Pin Connector
Pin 1: Ground - BK
Pin 2: Ground - BK/R
Pin 14: Ground - BK
Pin 15: Ground - BK/BL
Protege Wiring - To get the cluster in fully functional condition, aside from the fan relay, and fuel pump relay the motor should be safe to run without this.
Ground Fuel Pump Relay at ECU
Wire tach adapter to cluster and tach signal wire on distributor
Use Protege Coolant temp sensor in the second coolant temp sensor location (KLZE only), extend Protege coolant temp wires to sensor.
Use protege reverse light switch and wires.
Use a 98+ 626 Speed sensor and Protege harness to run the speedometer on the cluster.
Use an aftermarket thermostatic fan relay
Maintenance Information:
Oil: 5w30
Qty: 4.5qts
Oil Filter: MX6/626 filter
Gear Oil: 75w90
Qty: 2.9qts
Spark Plugs: NGK BKR6E-11
Distributor Cap and Rotor: MX6/626/Probe
Axles: MX6/626/Probe Intermediate Shaft, 01-03 2.0l Protege Axles
-----------------------------------------------------------
Okay, I will try and address some of the questions here.
The pinout list given is to connect the KL harness and ECU to the protege. When the KL harness and ECU are in a 626/MX6/Millenia/PGT/Etc... the harnesses will eventually merger with the body harness and fuse box. However, we are not using the KL body harness or fuse box(or atleast I did not). So, you have to provide the KL ecu with certain things to make it work. You need to give the KL ECU any 12v constants, 12v key-on, and any grounds that it would normally get from the KL body harness. This is to let the ECU have constant power, and to let it know that the key has been turned to the "ON" position. My pinout list are the wires that go to the ECU that need these things as listed, but thats for a 93/94 KL harness and ECU, other years are going to differ.
Along with the ECU, certain sensors and devices on the engine need their own fused 12v power. Examples being the injectors and ignition coil. The type of 12v power (Constant vs Key-On) will vary between different sensors. But, not all sensors need their own 12v, so don't get too scared that yopu will be running power wires everywhere. Quite a few sensors get power from the ECU it self.
Also, you dont have to run the Protege/P5 ecu to get this working. I did it to simplify the work needed. It allowed me to quickly and easily get the car swapped and running with all gauges working. But, you can simply spend more time wiring and eliminate the need for the protege/p5 ecu.
As for the Cooling system, you can do whatever you want for a radiator. Evan, one of the other old swap guys, setup a modified mishimoto protege radiator to work with his KL. I ran a MX6 radiator, because it required less work, making lower mounts for it was easier than extended the inlet and outlets of a different radiator. So, as long as you have a radiator and hoses connecting it to the engine correctly you will be fine.
A/C is a different story. You have two options. Run a complete v6 a/c system which may require some custom tubing and routing. Or, you can use a hybrid setup like I did for some time. You use a KL compressor, modified compressor to condesor line(modified as in the compressor end cut off and KL end welded on), then use the rest of the protege lines and sensors and protege ecu and harness to control it. This worked, but I had one rubber line rub constantly on another hard line and it kept rubbing a hole in it and leaking. I got sick of dealing with it and my protege has now been my winter car for the last two years so, I just finally removed all the A/C stuff. Without writing a novel or being there, this is the best I can really help and describe how to do this.
This swap isnt for someone that is used to doign oil changes and tune-ups. You do have to be quite resourceful and critically think about how each system works together to get a clear understanding of this whole project. However, all the homework is done for you and posted here in my post and the other KL swaps on this forum.
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